Rhino Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater

Today was yet another incredible day. I'm currently sitting on my veranda at the lodge and looking out over the park, as water buffalo walk by my balcony. Staying at a safari lodge feels like such a luxury. I think I'd feel more guilty if that shower wasn't so wonderful. I feel really clean for the first time in days.

We set off from the UAACC early this morning. I felt so sad to leave. It has come to feel so much like home. We drove most of the day. On our way to the park, we passed through rural areas with Masaai tending cattle and colorful markets on the side of the road. We had a couple stops on the way to the lodge (one to a curio shop and another at the park visitor center to learn about the crater). After being wowed by our accomodations, we started on our game drive into the crater. I can't remember ever having so much fun. I have retracted my previous statements criticizing the amount of tourist activities planned for this trip. The ride itself was so much fun as we pushed the top of the truck up so we could stand and take pictures as we went along. The road was so rough and it was like we were off-roading. I ended up pretty banged up by the end of the day, but it was worth it.

We stopped at a Masaai village and were greeting with a song and dance. The women had us try on their necklaces and dance with them. The guys went with the men and were taught how to jump the way the Masaai men do. We visited the witch doctor's hut where they had sacrificed and cooked a goat. We were then shown a Masaai hut and purchased some of the Masaai crafts.

In the crater, we saw many wild animals: zebra, Thompson gazelles, hippos, elephants, birds, lions, warthogs, water buffalo, wildebeast, etc. We pulled right up next to a lion! The views were spectacular - beyond description and our picutres cannot even begin to do it justice. The crater is so luch and green. The dirt in the park (and on the way to it) is red from the volcano. The contrast between the red dirth and green flora is striking. Some drama unfolded as we exited the park. We were three minutes late and found the gate closed. Two armed rangers argued with our drivers. They wanted bribes - 20,000 TSH per person. After an hour their boss came and let us pass, so all was well in the end.

Everyday has been such an adventure and I am learning so much. I'm surprised at how much Swahili I've picked up in only three days here. Both our group and the Tanzanians we've met are thrilled with our attempts at speaking Swahili. Tomorrow is another game drive and then back to the city of Arusha. It will be good to exchange some more money and some people need to visit the post office, but I'm not a huge fan of the city. It is too crowded and fast and rough. And I'm sure that this is nothing compared to Dar es Salaam or Nariobi, Kenya! I prefer the beauty and quiet of the rural areas. I could not help but thank God over and over again as I sit here looking out over the park. Asante sana, Mungu... asante sana.

Tanzania feels more like home than any place I've ever been. I can close my eyes and see it all with such vivid clarity. It is difficult for my mind to focus on one image. My brain seems to fly through the images like a video recording. I am trying to figure out what the significance of that is. I'm also trying to figure out the meaning of a nightmare that I had about an old Masaai man last night. I can't remember what happened, but it was antagonistic and frightened me. This man was very elderly and was a bad man - and evil man, it seemed. I was shaken by his image when I woke up. He had no ears, but instead had the inner parts exposed, flat against his head. The skin wasn't human, but insect exoskeleton and seemed to be decaying and slimy. I woke up struggling to breathe, my heart racing. It was such a strange dream to have when I have been nothing but at ease here. Hopefully I will have no scary dreams tonight. Lala salama!